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An autobiographical-political reflection on the eleven years that saw Edi Rama mayor of Tirana. A text written in the aftermath of his burning defeat for the renewal of the mandate and the start of the electoral campaign that led him to be prime minister. A story of contemporary Albania from a particular and privileged point of observation. Memorial, proclamation, instrument of struggle, political manifesto, historical-anthropological analysis, this book is also a "manual of post-communist Albanian citizenship". A key text to better understand the ferment of a country hinge between the Europeanist pushes and the Islamic attractions, between archaism and modernization. A reading useful to understand the importance of good political, diplomatic and economic relations between Italy and Albania.